Category Archives: holidays

How Do Processed Holiday Classics Compare to Homemade?

For years, a relative of mine served boxed stuffing at her holiday gatherings, spiced up with cut-up pre-cooked turkey sausage. When I offered to make some homemade stuffing one year, she waved me off. “No one can the tell the difference, anyway.”

Funny, but I could absolutely tell the difference. Was it just me? I contemplated on how real mashed potatoes, gravy, fresh green beans and cranberry sauce would stack up to their processed cousins. What about supermarket turkey versus a fresh, organic bird?

To find out, I made two dinners, one with fresh side dishes and a fancy turkey, the other with packaged sides and a supermarket bird. To test them, I gathered a panel of objective judges — the firefighters from my local firehouse. The result? Find out in our in-depth look – plus get my favorite recipes — in the Firehouse Challenge on my new site, CookFearless.com

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The obligatory Thanksgiving round-up

Country Living's "classic" menu

I had to stop into my local supermarket yesterday to pick up two bottles of Prosecco — and a pack of new kitchen sponges as that’s the kind of thrilling dichotomy that rules my life. The place was packed, a veritable fury of shopping activity. At first, I couldn’t figure out the 20-person deep checkout lines. Then, the dawn. It’s the weekend before Thanksgiving.

A select few know about my slightly disturbing fascination with supermarkets. What’s in food stores and what people choose to purchase intrigues me endlessly. So I casually eavesdropped on a conversations and peeked into a few carts. One thing that I noticed was the number of printouts people had in their hands. “I got this off a blog,” a woman near the brussel sprouts told her boyfriend. “The photo looks good. I hope it works.”

While I was walking around the store, a friend called asking for Thanksgiving advice and to ask what I was making — the fourth such call that I’ve fielded in two days. Two of them Thanksgiving virgins making a full holiday spread for the first time this year.  I bought that pair the book Thanksgiving 101 by Rick Rodgers. It’s comprehensive and explains everything step-by-step from roasting a turkey to making pan gravy to stock. I think I’ve given this book to about a half-dozen people in two years.

I really have no idea what I’m making yet. I’ve been coming across a lot of interesting stories and resources online, so here’s a few in no particular order.

Should you decide that you’d like to bone and stuff an entire turkey, you can check out my past Thanksgiving exploits. The one thing that I know that I’ll be making next weekend? Turkey gumbo. I make it every year after we’ve exhausted our appetite for turkey sandwiches and picked the carcass nearly clean. I agree to a point with a writer who made a case against going too crazy with trying to disguise that leftover meat last year in Slate.

Have some good Thanksgiving recipes on your blog or a good go-to site? Feel free to leave in the comments.

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Filed under food writing, holidays

Creepy turkeys

Suntanned Turkey

I just had to share this disturbing slide show from Delish.com on over-the-top turkeys that includes a turkey-shaped soy log, a turkey cake and a bird stuffed with alligator. Although I will be in Florida for the holiday, I will not be making “suntanned” turkey.

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Filed under cool sites, food blogs, holidays, stuff I won't eat or drink

Recipe Post-Thanksgiving Turkey Gumbo

Every site has recipes for leftover turkey. This one for turkey gumbo optimizes the entire carcass. I started the tradition back in the mid-1990s when I developed a deep, abiding love for all things cajun and creole following a series of trips to New Orleans. This recipe looks long, but once you’ve got all the prep done, it’s done in an hour or so. Any kind of sausage will work with this, but something with some spicy bite is my favorite.

True gumbo uses a dark roux that smells of lightly roasted coffee. Many purists insist it has to be made on the stove, but that can take an hour or more of careful attention, so I opt for the oven variety. Roux can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for a month, but take care with its preparation; if it has many black specks, it’s ruined and you need to start over. Also, hot roux is known as “Cajun napalm” for the nasty burns it can cause, so be careful. Also, always use gloves when handling hot chilies; they can burn and irritate eyes and skin. For a deeper flavor, roast the turkey carcass in a 400-degree oven for about 40 minutes until it browns.

Roux
1 cup (250 ml) olive oil
1 ½ cup (375 ml) all purpose flour


Turkey stock
Big turkey carcass, picked clean, meat reserved
1 carrot, quartered
1 large onion, skin intact, quartered
2 stalks celery, chopped
Couple garlic cloves
A bay leave, bunch of thyme leaves, parley stems
For the gumbo
¾ pound raw shrimp, shells reserved
3 quarts brown chicken or turkey stock
Couple tablespoons of olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped, about 3 cups
4 ribs of celery, chopped
2 large carrots, chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded, chopped
1 pound (500 grams) cooked chicken or turkey, cut bite-sized
1 ½ pounds (750 grams) cooked andouille sausage, sliced
1 28-oz. can peeled, seeded tomatoes
2 Habernero or jalapeno peppers, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
couple of bay leaves
3/4 pound (375 grams) okra, thawed if frozen
two fistfuls of fresh parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon gumbo Filé
1 to 2 lemons, juiced
Cayenne pepper or hot sauce, to taste
Hot cooked white or brown rice

Preheat oven to 315°F / 160°C degrees. For the roux, combine olive oil and flour in an ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat. Stir constantly until the roux is light brown with a nutty smell. Put into the oven and let cook undisturbed for the first hour. Then carefully stir every half hour afterward until it’s a dark, almost chocolate brown. This will take from 3 to 5 hours. Set aside and let cool.

While you make the roux, prep some stock by placing the carcass in four quarts of water with the vegetables. Bring just to a boil, then simmer for three or four hours until the roux is ready. Drain, reserving stock.
To start the gumbo, combine the shrimp shells with the stock and simmer while prep everything. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in an 8- to 12-quart pot. Cook the onions over medium heat until transluscent, then add the celery, carrots and green pepper. When the vegetables soften, add the chicken, sausage, tomatoes, hot peppers, garlic and thyme. Strain the stock and add. Stir in one-third of the roux until it’s absorbed in the liquid. Keep adding roux a tablespoon at a time until the gumbo reaches the desired thickness. Bring to a simmer and add the okra, parsley and shrimp and filé. Cook until the shrimp are bright pink and the gumbo thickens. Finally, stir in the lemon juice, recheck seasonings and serve over hot rice. Makes a big pot with about 10 or so servings.

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Filed under budget cooking, healthy recipes, holidays, recipes

Taxes and nostalgia

I’m sitting at my kitchen table today, sifting through strewn credit card statements and dog-eared receipts attempting to reassemble our life in 2008. I’m surprisingly nostalgic. Ah, that dinner at Le Trois Cochons in Paris, that great lunch with mom in Sarasota. Some shocking trends emerge. Did we really spend that much on wine? Geez, we went to Lowe’s a lot.

Then, I just stumbled into April 2008. On American Express, a line for Mike’s flight to Cancun, where his dad had a stroke. On the Visa statement, my crazy expensive same-day flight to Miami, where they flew Floyd in for emergency surgery that he never received. Here’s the crumbled receipt for the Thrifty rental car that I picked up at the airport, filled with hope that his dad would be OK. The same one that we dropped off a week later, dazed and exhausted after our final good-bye that morning.

In the middle of this, I realized that Easter marks the one-year anniversary of his death. It made me sit back, and not knowing what else to do, feel for the keyboard. Doesn’t Easter symbolize rebirth, renewed hope and expectations? I want to believe that. But now, I feel like I’ve been sucker punched with grief, delivered by otherwise benign slips of paper.

As I seem to do in all moments of distress, I need to go cook. I need to be in the kitchen, rooted firmly in my clogs. I made my favorite lamb recipe once for Floyd, and he loved it. So this one will be for him.

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Filed under deeply personal, floyd, holidays, recipes

My Easter Lamb

Agneau grillé mariné aux olives, artichauts et tomates
Olive- marinated grilled lamb, white beans, thyme, artichokes and tomatoes

High quality olives make all the difference in this dish, so don’t skimp. Go to a deli and get a glistening Mediterranean mix. The lamb should marinate overnight in the refrigerator, and be brought back to room temperature before grilling. White northern and cannellini beans work well. I use rosemary, thyme and parsley for the marinade herbs.

Lamb and marinade
4 ½ to 6 pounds (2 to 2.5 kgs) boneless leg of lamb, butterflied
¾ cup (80 g) high quality olives, pitted
1 tablespoon coarse salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup mixed fresh herbs, chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed
Juice of two lemons

Beans
4 ounces (125 g) salt pork or unsmoked bacon, cubed
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
2 medium carrots, chopped (about 1 cup)
1 pound (500 g) dry beans, soaked overnight, drained
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped or 1 tablespoon dry
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 quarts (2 liters) chicken stock
1 (14 ounce) can chopped, seeded tomatoes
2 (16 ounce) cans artichokes hearts, drained
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
Hot sauce, such as Tabasco

Marinade: Combine the ingredients in a small food processor. Blend until the olives and garlic are minced, and the mixture emulsifies. Slather on the lamb, and set into a non-reactive bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Marinate as noted above.

Start the beans in a large Dutch oven by cooking the salt pork or bacon slowly over low heat until browned. Add the onion and carrots until softened. Add the beans, bay leaf, thyme, garlic and enough chicken stock to cover the beans by about three inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook uncovered for 1 ½ hours. Do not add salt; it will toughen the beans. Add water or stock to keep beans moist. Add the tomatoes and artichokes, then simmer for another half hour. Cue the lamb.

Discard marinade, pat the meat dry with paper towels. If grilling a whole leg, start cooking the fat side down, about 15 to 20 minutes per side or until a meat thermometer reaches 125°F/ 51°C degrees for medium rare. Let lamb rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Finish beans with butter, salt, pepper and hot sauce to taste. Remove bay leaves, stir in chopped parsley. Serve with sliced lamb. Serves eight.

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Filed under beans, floyd, healthy recipes, holidays, lamb